Cesky Krumlov is a little over 100 miles south of Prague. It is situated on the Vltava River in the area known as the Sudetenland. Prior to WWII, the Sudetenland was inhabited primarily by Germans, going back to the days when it was part of the Habsburg Empire. In an attempt to appease Hitler, the area was ceded to Germany in the Munich Pact of 1938 and the Czechs who were living there were pushed out. After WWII ended, the area was given back to the Czechs, who then expelled the Germans (some whose families had lived there for hundreds of years) and moved into their homes. If I remember Jana’s story correctly, her German grandmother and Czech grandfather lived in this region. Her grandmother was allowed to stay following the war because she was the widow of a Czech man, but it became a hostile environment for her. It is sad how individuals get caught up in events that they have no control over (like moving borders), neighbors turn on neighbors, and lives are changed irrevocably. And it is hard to believe that this peaceful, charming little town is part of such a controversial and tumultuous history.
Unfortunately Greg was not feeling well enough to attend the group dinner at Pod Radnici. All of our group dinners were fun, but this one was especially so as those who had gone on the afternoon rafting trip had quite a tale to tell. They had expected to see someone waiting on the bank to meet them at their stopping point. Seeing no one, they had floated right past it (they swore the map they were given was useless). They eventually realized their mistake and ended up having to take a taxi back to town. This was one of a few events that nearly caused Jana to have a stroke. We all continued to enjoy the story for the rest of the trip. A light rain was falling as we left the restaurant. The glow from the street lamps reflected off of the damp cobblestones and I really did feel like I was in a fairy tale. If you ever get the chance to visit this charming town, you should definitely do it. I could have stayed for days (or forever). No Fitbit--not a strenuous day at all.
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Tour Day 8: Sunday, June 26
A Theater, a Castle, and Bears, Oh My!
A Perfect Ending to a Perfect Day
Cesky Krumlov is fairy tale perfect, with expansive views of red-tiled roofs, a castle on a hill, canoes and rafts floating by on the picturesque Vltava River, and cobblestone streets lined with quaint shops in centuries old buildings. After dropping off our luggage at Hotel Bellevue, we took a short walk to a magnificent overlook and then climbed the hill to the palace complex. We made our way through four courtyards on the way up, stopping several times to admire the views, including the vibrantly painted Round Tower, perched on a rocky bluff above the Vltava River. We had an appointment for a tour at a working Baroque Theater, one of only two left in Europe. The theater was built in 1766 and fell into disrepair during the communist years. It has since been refurbished, and our guide said it is approximately 80% original. After watching a short video on the history of the theater while seated on its wooden benches, we were allowed to go underneath the stage. The guide showed us the pulley system that was used for scenery changes and the trap doors that were used to make people and props appear and disappear from the stage. Truly a unique experience! Unfortunately we were not allowed to take pictures in the theater.
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After the theater tour, we were free to explore the town. The more adventurous of our group went on a Vltava River rafting trip. Greg and I played it safe and continued uphill through the fifth palace courtyard, which connects to the palace gardens. The gardens are very pretty, free to wander, and definitely worth a visit, as long as you are not expecting Versailles or Schonbrunn. On the way back down the hill we stopped to check out the pit containing European brown bears. Bears have lived on the premises since the 1500s when the bear was added to the ruling family’s coat of arms.
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We shared a pizza at the cozy Pizzeria Latran, which we highly recommend. The pizza was delicious, the people were friendly, and Kofola was the only cola on the menu. After lunch Greg was really dragging, so we checked into our room and he went to bed. I went back out and walked around wide-eyed, soaking in the gorgeous surroundings. This was one of those places where I felt I needed to keep pinching myself to prove I was really there. I popped into a toy shos and found a little wooden long dog for a souvenir. I took tons of pictures because everywhere I looked there was a scene worth capturing. Then I made my way to the bank of the river, forced myself to put the camera down, and sat for a while beneath the castle watching rafters float by and enjoying my beautiful surroundings. I even got to see a dachshund!
Storied History in a Story Book Town
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